I returned to Guadalajara with Dolores and Tita. While in Guadalajara I rode in a Calandria, a horse and buggy, and it was frightening because I kept getting spooked with all the traffic. It didn't seem to bother the horse as he trotted along with a clippity-clop, clippity-clop even though cars were honking and whizzing past him. For the first time in my life, I saw grapefruits growing on trees. I heard different types of music other than Mexican....classical, jazz, and rock in different clubs. I ate delicious food that did not resemble the Mexican food in the States. Mexico City to visit relatives of Dolores would be my next stop. They live in a government apartment building because the husband works for the state. While in Mexico City I visited the Museum of Anthropology and spent three hours wandering the many floors yet there was still so much more to see. I read where the museum is one of the largest in the world! I met a student from San Francisco and he walked with me to visit Chapultapec Castle and the monument of Los Ninos Heroes. Cadets who wrapped themselves in the flag and committed suicide by jumping from the tower of the castle instead of surrendering! He warned me about purse snatchers and said that if I see a robbery taking place just to keep quiet. One girl screamed when she saw a robbery and as people were getting off the bus a man caressed her face and later she realized he had cut her with a razor blade. He told me pick pockets work in groups....one to distract you by spilling coffee, ice cream or pop on you and as he tries to help you another will steal your purse or pick your pocket.

As I listened to his warnings, I found it hard to believe because everyone I had met had been helpful, kind, pleasant, congenial and courteous. On Friday, I had Miguel from a tour agency take me around to visit the Teotihuacan Pyramids and I climbed to the top of the Pyramid of the Moon; the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe where the church is sinking; a monastery, the floating gardens of Xochimilco, lava gardens, and University City. In the evening Miguel and I attended the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico and loved the many colorful folk dances of the different regions. After the show, he invited me for coffee and he drank coffee loaded with sugar while I drank hot chocolate. He told me he used to be a pilot flying fish from one port to another but one time his plane crashed and when he awoke, he was buried in fish. He hates the smell of fish and will not eat fish!Next stop will be Vera Cruz on the eastern coast. An incident at the bus station caused me some anxiety. Buses were full to Vera Cruz and the only bus available would leave at 9 p.m. When I tried to pay with a Traveler's Check it was not accepted. Carrying my luggage I stood in front of the busy bus station and wondered how I would find a place to cash the check. I felt frustrated and wanted to cry. About two blocks away I saw an Airway Travel Cargo office and carrying my suitcases I asked if they could cash a traveler's check. They would not cash a check but they did allow me to leave my luggage while I went looking for a place that would cash the "good around the world" traveler's check. Finally, a few more blocks and I entered a Sanborn's restaurant where I was told that if I purchased something, they would cash my check. I bought a fruit cocktail and a lemonade and was given change in pesos!
Back at the bus station, I purchased a ticket for Vera Cruz and then sat and waited for about six hours. While I waited, a girl from Kansas asked me to watch her suitcase and purse and went running off. She was gone for a couple of hours while I guarded her belongings. It is strange that a trusting bond is made between Americans traveling in Mexico. It is as if we instantly become friends. I was happy she returned before my bus left!
The bus ride was entertaining due to a group of artists. Jorge, the leader, told me stories along the way. I heard about a swimming pool full of gardenias, a penitentiary, his home in Puebla, shared his box of candy made from sweet potatoes, and enjoyed a story of a Mexican hairless dog. When he wasn't talking I fell asleep. It was one in the morning when we arrived in Vera Cruz. A taxi took me to the beach front hotel where I thought I would be staying but was told that there were no rooms available. An Electrician's Convention was going on and all the rooms in Vera Cruz were full. I asked if someone could call other hotels to see if anyone had a room and I was handed a phone and a phone book. I called three hotels before I found one in town that had two rooms available. It was on a first come, first serve basis and no matter how much I pleaded they would not reserve a room for me. I went out on the deserted and dark street to wait for a cab. Luckily, a taxi returning with four inebriated men picked me up and took me downtown. I got the room and felt like a hooker as I took the elevator to my room around 2:30 in the morning. The five men on the elevator kept glancing at me and I pretended not to notice.
Sitting in the plaza, marimba music in the background, and the balmy weather perfect, I wrote my daily letter. A man came up to me and asked if I was a writer. He was a small man with a normal upper body but short legs. He politely asked if he could sit on the bench with me. Mexicans are curious about life in the United States. When he left, two young men approached me. They both wanted to show me around Vera Cruz. One was slender, sandy colored hair, green eyes, tall and handsome. His name was Jose Manuel. I would have preferred Jose Manuel but chose Luis. I figured that the handsome one always got what he wanted, so I picked the short, dark and not good-looking one. We took a boat ride along the shore and then to a small island with a light house. He seemed to know everyone on the island and for lunch we had a delicious fish smothered in tomato and onion. When I tried to pay he would not let me. He said he wanted me to have good memories of Vera Cruz. Luis was friends with the lighthouse keeper so he was able to take me to the top of the tower. He told me that not everyone gets to enter the lighthouse! Later, he asked if I wanted to go swimming so I was shown to a bedroom with three bunk beds and a hammock where I could change. On the top bunk, I neatly placed my clothes on the camera bag and my purse. While we were swimming, Jose Manuel joined us. They warned me about the jelly fish and how it can burn. It looked like Saran Wrap floating in the water. When I returned to the bedroom I found my clothes scattered and my purse on its side Was this a scam? The guide takes the visitor out for a swim and someone goes through your belongings? I gathered everything up and mentioned how my belongings had been moved around. Luis thought it was just the children playing on the beds. Later, when I checked my purse nothing was missing. My passport, traveler's checks, camera, and money were safe! We boarded the boat to return to Vera Cruz and made plans to meet at 7 p.m. to see the Danza de Los Voladores where five men in Native garb climb a tall pole and drop and twirl upside down around the pole while one plays a flute and drum.
I took a nap and woke up with my back burning from being in the sun too long! A cold shower felt good on my back. I arrived at the park to find out that the Danza had happened at 6:30 p.m. and Luis was no where in sight. Jose Manuel came strolling by and we sat and talked. He told me he had a truck and he could take me around Vera Cruz and show me the sights. He asked if I liked to dance and when I told him I did, he took me to a club. Even though I told him I did not drink, Medias de Seda, a rum drink, kept appearing at the table! He was an excellent dancer, moving his fluid body to the music! The majority of persons dancing were all very good and I felt like a stiff wooden Indian. At midnight I told him I had to return to the room and he asked "Porque?" As I thought about it, I realized it was my mother telling me that no good girl would be out after midnight. We danced and talked and at 3 in the morning, Jose Manuel told me he had to go to work. One of his jobs was going up on a hill, facing the ocean and giving blasts on a loud air horn to get all the fishermen up and on their way to go fishing. As we sat in the truck, I could see many small boats, lights bobbing, heading out to the open sea.

Next stop was Mandingo, a place to eat while musicians played and made up verses about you. Jose Manuel payed for the requests and I paid for lunch which was less than two dollars for both of us. We had fresh oysters, fish, pop and tortillas. We drove to La Boca del Rio and swam in the river with about fourteen children. The kids loved to jump into the river and splash water on me. We went to Mocambo beach and swam in the ocean. El Bosque de la Playa del Norte I found interesting because all the trees lean one way because of the constant breeze. Jose Manuel would not allow me to take his picture because of some belief that it would take his soul.
In the morning I had to go purchase my ticket back to Mexico City. My travels were winding down and I had many wonderful memories. As I waited on a corner for a bus, the small man I had met pulled up in a Volkswagen bug. He offered to take me to the bus station and I figured if he tried anything I was bigger than he was and I would be able to fight him off! There was a long line at the bus station and he said, "I know the director, come with me." I followed him to an office and purchased my ticket without having to wait. He brought me to the hotel and I could not help thinking that the people of Mexico are beautiful with a capital B! Jose Manuel aka Pepe, picked me up in the morning, put my bags in the back of his truck, and drove me to the bus station. When he got out of the truck to get my luggage, the truck rolled and the open door was torn from its hinges by a large pole. I felt terrible that all I could do was thank him, say goodbye, and board the bus.
The Mayan Peninsula would have to wait for another time because I had run out of time and money. I have wonderful and beautiful memories of Mexico and the thoughtfulness and generosity of the people. Everyone I came in contact with had been helpful and gone out of their way to help me enjoy my stay in Mexico.
Below are some of the people I met and who helped form my impressions of Mexico! Some who were important in my travels like Jesus, Miguel, Jose Manuel, and Luis I was unable to photograph but I will always remember them!


The End

























